How To Build A Bicycle Repair Stand
Media Platforms Design Team
If your New year's resolution is to larn how to practice your own bicycle wrenching, you'll need to start with one bones tool: a work stand up. (After all, turning the cranks to make adjustments won't work if your wheels are touching the basis.) Commercial stands are nice, simply they tin exist pricey. Too, with 30 bucks, a trip to The Abode Depot and a couple of hours on a winter weekend, y'all can build your own customized work station.
THE INGREDIENTS
ONE 3x3-FOOT PIECE OF ane-INCH PLYWOOD OR PARTICLEBOARD (this is the base of the stand)
SEMIGLOSS Pigment (to paint the base)
ONE 1-INCH THREADED Pipage FLANGE (for joining the upright to the base)
4 EACH 1x1/4-INCH BOLTS, WASHERS AND NUTS (for attaching the flange to the base)
ONE 5-Pes Section (or whatever best fits your height) OF i-INCH-DIAMETER Pipage THREADED ON BOTH ENDS (this is the upright)
One 1x3/4-INCH 90-DEGREE REDUCER Pipe ELBOW (for joining the arm to the upright)
1 two-Pes Department OF three/4-INCH-DIAMETER Pipe THREADED ON BOTH ENDS (this is the arm)
1 5-INCH Section OF 4x4 (to brand the clamp jaws)
One PONY CLAMP FIXTURE (style no. 50; go here to run across what it looks like: adjustableclamp.com/cf50)
EIGHT one-INCH SCREWS (for attaching the jaws to the clamp)
1. Brush Base of operations
Pigment the plywood—the semigloss cease makes removing lube and dirt easier. When it'southward dry, position the pipage flange about 4 inches in from i corner and mark where the four flange holes are. Remove the flange and drill through the wood on the marks, making sure to countersink the holes on the underside of the plywood so the basics are flush. So bolt the flange into place with the 1x1/4-inch bolts.
2. Position Pipes Screw the v-human foot section of pipage into the flange until it's tight. So screw the reducer elbow onto the top until it's tight and facing in—toward the corner of the base opposite the flange. Then screw the ii-foot pipe to the elbow (A).
three. Brand Jaws Drill a hole a little larger than the diameter of your largest seatpost length-wise down the middle of the 4x4 wood block. (For example, for a 27.2-mmdiameter seatpost, drill a ane 1/8-inch hole.) Then saw the block—and hole—in half lengthwise (B).
4. Prep Pony Drill four holes into each Pony clench jaw—one in each corner (C). Then slide the Pony clench parts onto the horizontal arm and screw on the handle end, locking it in so the horizontal edge of the clamp is ten degrees beneath parallel with the ground (D). This angle ensures that in the stand your bike'due south forepart bicycle will be lower than the rear and non swing when yous're working.
5. Clamp It Property the woods block together equally it was before you lot cutting information technology in one-half, place information technology between the Pony clamps then the seatpost hole is running vertically. So tighten the Pony clench to hold the cake in place, and drill and spiral information technology to the wood jaws using the 1-inch screws.
half-dozen. Use Stand up With the Pony clamp open, carefully lift your bike and place the seatpost betwixt the jaws. Plough the handle to tighten the clench and hold your bike in the perfect position. TIP: Line the wooden jaws with recycled inner tubes to preclude scratching. For advanced how-to tips, plus everything you need to know to build a dwelling house shop, download Jim Langley's due east-book, Your Dwelling house Bicycle Workshop ($twenty; roadbikerider.com/hbw_page.htm). For more than repair assist and tricks, become to jimlangley.net and jimlangley.blogspot.com.
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Source: https://www.bicycling.com/repair/a20021878/do-it-yourself-building-your-own-repair-stand/
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